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Drivers Quarter Panel Repair

Last Updated: 11/29/2005

Drivers Side

Fig. 1

Drivers Side

Before

 

Old Quarter for Template

Fig. 2

Old Quarter Removed

Old Quarter Removed

Fig. 3

Primed Tub Channel

During

As can be seen in Fig 1, the quarters (like the rest of the tub) were totally shot. When I ordered the parts from the sheet metal shop to do the center channel I ordered enough 16 ga sheet to do the quarters. I had measured the length needed for the new quarters carefully from the joint going down behind the doors to the edge where the tail gate rests and added about 3/4" for errors. When you do this make SURE to use a flexible tape measure! I used a cloth seamstress tape my wife had. It follows every contour of the quarters easily. The sheet I got was 114 inches long and 30 inches wide. I cut it exactly in half making two pieces 57 x 30. Note: You really only need a piece 57L x 23W inches. The metal shop just had the 30" piece handy. Now follow along as we make a new 16 ga quarter panel.

  1. I decided to do the drivers side first. It had less things to do to it. It only has the side marker light, reverse light, and tail gate clamp hooks The passenger side will have the gas tank filler that has to be cut out of the old and welded into the new, the spare tire carrier mounts have to be addressed, the side marker light mounted and the tail gate hook installed. I figured I would 'practice' on the drivers side before tackling the more complex passenger side. :-)
  2. I started by using a square set to 1/2" resting on the edge of the tub lip to draw a line across the old quarter panel. When cut this will expose about 3/4" of the lower factory tub channel lip.
  3. I used a cut off wheel on a die grinder to remove the old quarter. This did not take too long. I even managed to keep the cut fairly straight! See Fig. 2 for the old quarter panel.
  4. Next I used a wire brush to remove all the rust on the lip and then primed it with a weld thru primer. See Fig. 3. Now we can start on the new panel.
  5. I laid the new sheet across a pair of saw horses and clamped some thick metal along each edge to stiffen it. 2 x 4's would also work. I did not want it bowing as I worked throwing off the tracing and measuring.
    I then placed the old quarter on top of the new sheet, aligning the front edge against one factory edge and the long edge where I cut it from the tub along the other factory cut edge. This ensured that I would have two known good edges to work with. One down the line at the drivers door and one all across the top where the  piece would be welded to the tub. The other rough edge where I cut the sheets in half would be where the quarter wraps around and would be trimmed anyway. I allowed about 3/4" overhang anyway just in case.
  6. Now I used a black Sharpie and to the best of my ability traced around the edge of the old quarter. Where it was rusted or missing metal I stopped and started again on good metal. I also traced out the side light cut out. Yes, I realize it will be on the inside but since my entire cargo floor is out I have easy access to cut it out.
  7. I removed the clamps and the old quarter and used a straight edge to fill in the gaps in the traced line.
  8. Now some may laugh at how I cut these out but I don't own a fancy plasma cutter and my hand is not steady enough to use a cut off wheel or my new air shear. The air shear works great but 16 ga is the absolute limit of it's cutting ability. You have to push so hard that you can't get a smooth line and curves are out of the question. However, it does work great on 20ga or thinner. Highly recommend this if you work with thinner metals. So what did I use? I used a cheap ass Black and Decker jig saw with a 24 TPI bi-metal blade! Yes it took a while to do it but the edge is smooth and the wheel well curves were easy to do. Just wear ear plugs as it is LOUD.
  9. Once I had it cut out I laid it on top of the other sheet that I clamped the thick metal to and clamped it down. Now I had a nice large flat surface to work on.
  10. Next I used the air shear to cut a couple of long 3/4 " wide strips of 16 ga from another scrap piece I had.

Welding Lip On

Fig. 4

Welding Lip On

 

  1. See Fig. 4 Starting at the front bottom edge where it starts to curve up into the wheel well, I tack welded the strip to the quarter following the curve. This will duplicate the factory rolled lip which adds significant strength to the quarter.The strip bends very easily. Just make sure to keep it FLAT against the bottom! Don't let the panel bow or the strip will not be straight. I just tacked it enough to hold it. Once it is on the truck the seam is filled with welds on the FRONT. That will allow me to grind the edge so that it looks rolled like the factory. Now I was ready to attach the panel to the truck, or was I? Hmmm, how in the hell am I going to get that sucker to bend around the corner evenly and smoothly?

At this point I stopped and researched on the web to see how other folks have done this curve. A friend of mine in Virginia built a jig using 2x4's and a large plastic roller with a radius close to that needed to bend the metal BEFORE he mounted it to the truck. One guy says that a Cruiser brake drum is the exact radius needed to form the curve. Another guy enlisted a buddy to help him force the metal to bend, tack welding it around the edge bit by bit. Well those are all great ideas but I was lacking one or more of the necessary items to do any of those! My wife had left to go shopping (According to her I ran her out of the house making so much noise ...) so I had no help. (It was the Thanksgiving holiday so no friends to help either.) I also did not have a large radius roller to build the jig so I decided that I would use the brute force method and figure out how to bend it later.

Tacked in place

Fig. 5

Tacked in place

 

  1. I used several large clamps and clamped the quarter to the truck to see how it fit. See Fig. 5. The front edge lined up perfectly! However the cut tub edge did not. Imagine that... That told me that the cab had settled, the top was not square (this was a soft top originally, the hard top was added later) or my center channel was off. Oh well, not a problem. This is not a restoration truck!

Plug Welds

Fig. 6

Plug Welds

How I bent the panel

Fig. 7

How I bent the curve

Another view

Fig. 8

Another view

Clamped ready to weld

Fig. 9

Clamped ready to weld

 

  1. I used a cut off wheel on a die grinder to shape the tub to match the edge of the new quarter. This also gave me about 1/8" gap for good welding. Next I started the laborious task of tacking the panel in. I started by drilling out the holes for the spot welds in the tub channel lip to 1/4". Then I plug welded the quarter to the lip from the inside. See Fig. 6. Next I started on the outside and working back and forth started filling in the seam. To avoid warping don't let any one section get too hot! Just take you time and work back and forth. Once I had the panel pretty secure I grabbed a cold one and sat and stared at the panel just thinking about how I was going to bend that curve smoothly by myself.
  2. Amazing what a little alcohol lubrication will do for the thought process! After about 20 minutes of staring at it it I had an idea... In the past I have used ratchet straps to pull many things together. They are strong, allow incremental movement, and are easily released. So... See Fig. 7 and 8 for how I did it. It worked so well that I could not believe it! The metal just curved like it was on rollers One thing that I might mention. The edge of the quarter will cut the strap! I placed a piece of nylon glass edge protector (came with a piece of sheet glass) under the strap to keep it from cutting it. Once it was close to being flush with the edge I used two more clamps top and bottom to distribute the load. See Fig. 9.
  3. I placed a few tacks on the edge then released the strap so I wouldn't melt it. I finished welding the edge then ground it down smooth. See Fig. 10 - 11.

The edge

Fig. 10

The edge

Cut off and ground down

Fig. 11

Cut off and ground down

Inside veiw

Fig. 12

Rear Inside view

 

Front Inside

Fig. 13

Front Inside View

 

Cutting Holes

Fig. 14

Cutting Holes

Light and latch

Fig. 15

Test mounting light

Anchors

Fig. 16

Cleaned supports

Side Marker Cut out

Fig. 17

Side Marker Cut out

 

  1. See Fig 12 - 13 for the inside view of the panel. I still have to finish filling in the welds and grind it all smooth but getting there.
  2. Next up is mounting the stock reverse light. Now I know someone out there is saying, "But you have a 1974 bumper with reverse lights built in?" Yep, but I LIKE the stock light and need to keep folks guessing about the year of my truck! :-) From the old quarter panel I cut the reverse light hole along with the screw holes for the tail gate hook. I used this as a template to mark the holes. See Fig. 14.
  3. I cut out the reverse light hole with a jig saw and test mounted the light. See Fig. 15. (Hmmm looks like I need a new gasket for the light.)
  4. Next up I removed the threaded support backing plates from the old quarter panel for the side maker light and tail gate latch by drilling out the spot welds. These went into the de-rust tank. I left them overnight then a quick wire wheel treatment and they are good as new. See Fig. 16.
  5. The side marker light had been marked already on the inside using the old quarter so I cut that out with the jig saw. See Fig. 17.
  6. Now I could weld in the backing plates I cleaned up. See Fig. 18 - 19.
  7. After filling in all the weld gaps, plug welding it to the center channel, and flap wheel grinding it all down, here is the finished product. See Fig. 20. It will need a bit of filler along the seams, but again, this is not a resto!

Tail Gate Latch Support

Fig. 18

Tail Gate Latch Support

Side Marker Supports

Fig. 19

Side Marker Supports

Primed

Fig. 20

Primed

 

 

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